Hi everyone, now that some places are cooling down (I'm sure my old roommie from Denver is happier to be here in the Irish Midst than in Denver this week, at least her surplus tomato problem will be solved upon her return lol), I thought I'd try to get this room going a bit more.

Many years ago when I got married (about 1994) the new fangled internet was mostly "usenets" and "discussion groups," but a popular early list was the knitting list. They also listed a lot of free patterns, which as a lonely housewife in a Swedish apartment during the Winter, I found very helpful. Now there are dozens of sites with free patterns, some better than other.

I thought I would start looking for an listing some of the more interesting ones, even if I have not tried them myself. As it is, from those early years, I have two huge binders of printed out patterns (some on dot-matrix from DH's days at Cambridge University UK) that I still used and I consider prime "prep material."

Free patterns are a good way to increase your basic "pattern stash" even if you can't afford knitting books. If you can afford it, get a copy of Knitting Without Tears by Elizabeth Zimmerman for the basics (that's what I did) and then continue on to the internet.

I will start the pattern listings in the next post and encourage everyone to contribute in the same way. That way, folks can find the patterns they are look for.

Todays pattern is one I have not tried but looked really useful as it is really several patterns in one.

I found this pattern looking for baby hats, because that's a prep item that anyone facing Winter with a less than over-heated house is going to need. I remember the first time I was in a house during the Winter when the heat went off in the mid-west and the shock of being roasted warm in front of the fire and freezing in the back. Having warm baby things made up as a prep item, even if you have no children, is a good idea because you never know who could end up staying with you in an emergency.

This starts off as a sock pattern (I would say a medium level not a beginner) but then uses the same yarn leftovers (small thin sock yarn) for the hat. It then also has a tea cozy, which used to seem a stupid item to me until I moved to a 200 year old house with turf heating if the power goes off. Tea gets cold really fast if you don't cover the pot with something. You can use an old towel, but a tea cozy looks nicer and is more fun.

Then if finally uses a different yarn to make dish cloths. Another little mundane item that I have never made myself, but would start doing so right away if things got difficult to get at the store. These also make great gifts, and if you did not have access to the yarn they recommend, you could knit them with any cotton yarn or even strips taken from old cotton knit clothing, the ones with too many holes to reuse as regular cloth. The cotton bit is important for absorption as wool would repel water and not work very well.

Here is the link:
http://makeityourown.wordpress.com/free-patterns/

text version:
Free Patterns 30 April, 2007
makeityourown @ 8:57 am

LADIES 8 PLY SOCKS

Ladies 8 ply socks

Yarn: 3 50g balls of 8ply yarn such as Totem, Country 8ply, Heirloom EasyCare, Jo Sharp Dk etc

Needles: a set of four 3.25mm double pointed needles (dpns)

Finished Measurements: leg 15cm. Foot: 23cm

Tension: 26sts and 32 rows to 10cm

Cast on 48 sts and arrange on three dpns, 16 on each needle. Work 5cm of k1, p1 rib. Work in stocking st until 15cm from cast on edge

Heel K12 from Needle 1. Put the rem 4 sts from Needle 1 onto Needle 2. Purl back across Needle 1 and then using same needle purl across 12 sts from Needle 3. These sts are for heel. Divide the remaining sts evenly over 2 needles. These stitches are for instep.Continue knitting back and forth in st st on the heel sts, slipping the first st of each row for 18 rows

Turn heel sl1, k14, ssk, k1, turn. P8, p2tog, p1, turn. K9, ssk, k1, turn. P10, p2tog. P1, turn. K11, ssk, k1, turn. P12, p2tog, p1, turn. K13, ssk, k1, turn. P14, p2tog, p1, turn. 16 sts left on needle. K8, thus completeing heel at the centre back. Put the instep sts all back onto one needle.

Pick up sides knit the other 8 sts of the heel with the spare needle and then with the same needle knit up 12 sts down the side of the heel. With a new needle, knit across the instep sts. With a new needle, knit up 12 sts up the other side of the heel and then knit the 8 heel sts with the same needle. You now have 20 sts on N1 and N3 and 24 sts on N2. Knit one round.

Shape instep N1 – knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. N2 – knit. N3 – k1, ssk, k to end. Knit one row without shaping. Repeat these 2 rows until there are 12 sts on ech of needles 1 and 2. (48 sts total)

Foot Knit without shaping for 15cm, measuring from where sts were picked up.

Toe N1 – k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. N2 – k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. N3 – k1, ssk, k to end. Knit one round. Repeat the last 2 rounds until 16 sts remain. Using N3, knit across N1. Graft toe. Weave in loose ends.

LADIES SOCKS IN 4PLY

To make a similar pair of socks in 4ply yarn follow these instructions:

Yarn: 1 x 100g or 2 x 50g balls of 4ply wool yarn or 4ply sock yarn

Needles: a set of four 2.25mm double pointed needles (dpns)

Finished Measurements: leg 15cm. Foot: 23cm

Tension: 34 sts and 48 rows to 10cm

Cast on 64 sts and arrange on three dpns, 20 on 1st and 3rd needled and 24 on 2nd needle
Work 5cm of k1, p1 rib
Work in stocking st until 15cm from cast on edge

Heel K16 from Needle 1. Put the rem sts from Needle 1 onto Needle 2.
Purl back across Needle 1 and then using same needle purl across 16 sts from Needle 3. These 32 sts are for heel. Divide the remaining sts evenly over 2 needles. These stitches are for instep.
Continue knitting back and forth in st st on the heel sts, slipping the first st of each row for 24 rows

Turn heel sl1, k18, ssk, k1, turn. P8, p2tog, p1, turn. K9, ssk, k1, turn. P10, p2tog. P1, turn. K11, ssk, k1, turn. P12, p2tog, p1, turn. K13, ssk, k1, turn. P14, p2tog, p1, turn. K15, ssk, k1, turn. P16, p2tog, p1, turn. K17, ssk, k1, turn. P18, p2tog, p1, turn. 20 sts left on needle. K10, thus completeing heel at the centre back. Put the instep sts all back onto one needle.

Pick up sides knit the other 10 sts of the heel with the spare needle and then with the same needle knit up 14 sts down the side of the heel. With a new needle, knit across the instep sts. With a new needle, knit up 14 sts up the other side of the heel and then knit the 10 heel sts with the same needle. You now have 24 sts on N1 and N3 and 32 sts on N2. Knit one round.

Shape instep N1 – knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. N2 – knit. N3 – k1, ssk, k to end. Knit one row without shaping. Repeat these 2 rows until there are 16 sts on each of needles 1 and 2. (64 sts total)

Foot Knit without shaping for 15cm, measuring from where sts were picked up.

Toe N1 – k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. N2 – k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. N3 – k1, ssk, k to end. Knit one round
Repeat the last 2 rounds until 20 sts remain. Using N3, knit across N1. Graft toe. Weave in loose ends.

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EASY COATHANGER COVERS

Coathanger covers

Yarn: assorted 8ply (DK weight) yarns. Needles: 9mm. Finished Measurements: each pattern has instructions for a 29cm child’s hanger and an adult’s 39cm hanger.

Stocking Stitch Cover Using 3 yarns held together, cast on 8 sts. Work in Stocking stitch until cover measures the same as the hanger, slightly stretched. Cast off. Using a flat seam, sew one end and the long edges together. Remove the metal hook and slide the cover over the hanger. Sew the other end together. Locate the hole for the hook and screw the hook back in.

Garter Stitch Cover Using 3 yarns held together, cast on 25 sts for small hanger or 35 for large hanger. Work 9 rows garter stitch and cast off. Using a flat seam, sew one end and the long edges together. Remove the metal hook and slide the cover over the hanger. Sew the other end together. Locate the hole for the hook and screw the hook back in.

Moss Stitch Cover (in the US moss st is called seed st) Using 3 yarns held together, cast on 25 sts for small hanger or 35 for large hanger. Work 8 rows moss stitch and cast off. Using a flat seam, sew one end and the long edges together. Remove the metal hook and slide the cover over the hanger. Sew the other end together. Locate the hole for the hook and screw the hook back in.

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LEFT OVER SOCK WOOL BABY HAT


Sock wool baby hat

Yarn: 25g of sock wool (80% wool, 20% nylon). Needles: set of four 2.75mm double pointed needles. Tension: 30sts to 10cm. Fits: newborn to 3 months.

Cast on 120 sts and distribute them evenly over three needles. Join to work in the round. Work in stocking stitch for 11cm from cast on edge. Shape top: (k2tog, k eighteen) six times. Work one round without shaping. (k2tog, k17) six times. Work one round. (k2tog, k16) six times. Work one round. Continue in this manner until there are 36 sts remaining then work the decreases in every row until there are 6 sts remaining. Cut the yarn leaving a 10cm tail. Thread the end on to a tapestry needle and run the yarn through the 6 sts and pull up. Weave in the ends.

To avoid getting ladders where the needles meet, every few rows, work 2 extra stitches on to the working needle before changing needles. This means that the point where the needles meet is always changing and there won’t be a long ladder.

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LEFT OVERS SOCKS

Socks made with left over sock yarn

Left Overs Socks

Yarn: 20 left over bits of sock yarn, about 90g total. Needles: one set of five 2.25mm double pointed needles Tension: 35sts to to 10cm Fits: a ladies medium-large foot, 25 cm long from heel to toe.

These socks are worked in a continuous tube in stripes of 10 rounds, the toe is then decreased and grafted and then an afterthought heel is added at the end.

Cast on 80 sts and divide evenly over 4 needles (20 sts on each needle). Work 10 rounds of k2 p2 rib in one colour and another 10 rounds of rib in another colour. Continue in st st for 10 rounds in another colour. Change colour again and work a decrease round as follows: on each of the four needles k2tog and then k to end, 4 sts decreased. Work another 9 rows in the same colour. Change colour and work another 10 rows. Change colour again and work another decrease row. You should now have 72 sts, 18 on each needle. Continue in st st, changing colour every 10 rows until you have a total of 16 different colours (or 160 rows) from casting on. K 4 rows of a new colour and then begin decreasing for toe. Needle 1: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Needle 2: k1, ssk, k to end. Repeat this for needles 3 and 4. K all sts in the next round. Repeat these two rounds, changing colour after 10 rounds until you have 20 sts left. Knit the sts on needle 1 with needle 4. Slip the sts from needles 2 and 3 onto 1 needle. Cut the yarn and graft the toe.

The afterthought heel is worked between colours 10 and 11.

At the back of the sock, at the point where colour 10 changes to colour 11, locate the loose ends of the yarns. Unravel the yarns to the right and the left, leaving live sts above and below the opening. Continue doing this until you have 38 sts at the top and 38 sts at the bottom. Put these live sts on to 4 double pointed needles, 19 sts on each needle, 2 needles at the top and 2 at the bottom of the opening. Join yarn at the centre bottom of the opening and knit one round, knitting up 2 sts in either side of the opening. You should now have 20 sts on each needle. k 3 rounds. Decrease the heel in exactly the same way as you decreased the toe. Graft when you have 20 sts left.

Wear them with thrifty pride.

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TEA COZY FOR MOTHERS’ DAY

Tea cosy

Yarn: 8ply/DK wool in 5 different colours, one dark, one variegated. Needles: 4mm needles or size needed for a tension of 20sts to 10cm. Needle for sewing up. Fits a 4 cup tea pot

Cast on 45 sts and work 4 rows garter st in dark green

6 rows stocking stitch in bright pink. 2 rows garter st in variegated

6 rows stocking st in light green. 2 rows garter st in variegated

6 rows stocking st in light pink. 2 rows garter st in dark green

6 rows stocking st in variegated. 2 rows stocking st in dark green

6 rows stocking st in bright pink. 2 rows garter st in variegated

4 rows st st in light green

Eyelet row: k4, (yfwd, k2tog, k5) 5 times, yfwd, k2tog, k4. Purl one row

4 rows garter st in dark green. Cast off

Make another piece in the same manner but change the order of the colours, working variegated ridges except next to a variegated band, where dark green should be used instead.

Sew in loose ends, but leave the dark green ends at the cast on and cast off edges. Sew the pieces together for 2cm at the top and bottom using the dark green ends. Make a plaited cord using 6 strands of wool, each about 60cm long. Weave the cord through the eyelets, pull up and tie in a bow. If you think the edges are curling too much, work a row of double crochet (single crochet if you are in the USA or Canada) around the edges.

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DISHCLOTHS

Dishcloths

Suggested Yarns: Heirloom 8ply cotton, 2 strands of Heirloom 4ply cotton, 2 strands of Panda or Sullivans 4ply cotton, Sirdar Pure Cotton Double Knitting, any 100% cotton roughly 8 ply from the op shop, old Patons Gem cotton, Sugar’n'Cream Cotton (hard to find in Australia), Pakucho organic cotton (available from ecoyarns)

Bias squares with crochet edges The brown and white cloth used 2 strands of 4ply Heirloom cotton. The blue and multi coloured clothes used 8 ply op shop cotton and stash cotton.

Using 4mm needles, cast on 1 st

Kfb, k to end. Work this row until there are 36 stitches

K2tog, k to end. Work this row until there are 3 stitches

K3tog

Put the remaining stitch onto a 4mm crochet hook and then begin your chosen crochet edge.

Picot edge (used on brown and white cloth): work a row of dc evenly around the edge of the square, adding an extra stitch at each corner. 1ch, *3dc, 5ch, sl into 1st ch. Repeat from * to end, sl into 1st dc. Fasten off. Weave in ends

Treble edge (used on mulitcoloured cloth): 3ch, *1 tr, 1 ch. Repeat from * evenly around the edge of the square, adding an extra treble at each corner. Sl into 1st tr. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Shell edge (used on blue cloth): 1ch, *5tr into a space about two rows along the edge of the square, 1dc into a space about two rows along the edge of the square ( 1 shell). Repeat from * to end, evenly along the edge of the square, adding an extra shell at each corner. Sl into beginning ch. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Moss stitch cloth

The cream cloth used 2 strands of 4 ply Heirloom cotton.

Using 4mm needles, cast on 30 stitches. Work in moss stitch for 50 rows. Cast off in pattern

Put the last stitch onto a 4mm crochet hook. Work a row or dc evenly around the edge of the square. Work a row of crab stitch. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

For those in the USA When I say dc or tr, you should substitute sc or dc respectively.

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Comments (20)

I stopped buying scrubbies for doing the dishes for a while and only used dishcloths I had knitted. After a couple weeks I gave in and bought more scrubbies. I love to knit dishcloths when I am trying out new stitches, but I absolutely hate using them on anything that is actually dirty. I have lots of scrubbies stored for future use now! I usually knit my dishcloths as squares rather than on a diagonal, just repeating whatever stitch I am trying out until the row is long enough for what I need.

If anyone is nearby when the world ends and needs some knitting patterns I have a couple boxes of books and magazines that my MIL has bought for me at garage sales. And assuming no EMP damage I have plenty on this computer too.

I also get emails from this site, which sends out free patterns all the time. http://knittingdaily.com/ They send out lots of emails, just so you know before you sign up.

Kayleigh

First - thanks Beaners that sort of review of products is very helpful. Also for those who want free crochet patterns, please find and post them. Some of these patterns are from old books I have, but most are found on free websites.

OK, a number of mothers and carers for small babies have asked about these. Soakers are what women used to cover their infants diapers before disposable diapers and before plastic pants. While I understand they do always smell a bit, and they are not totally water tight, they are better than nothing. Many babies can use these when they have a skin condition that does not allow for plastic pants and they need cloth diapers. Be sure to use wool as most other fabrics won't "soak" properly. You could try a wool hat or mitten on the baby first to make sure they don't have a wool reaction. Those really are rare, but they do happen. But this is one item that needs to be wool to work properly.

Soakers for 3 to 6 Moths

From Handknits for Babies by Beehive - Book 78 -no date for book but it was published in Toronto Canada

Needles US 5 or Canadian 9 (apx)

Yarn: Book says it takes 2 oz of fingering weight 4 ply, but I don't think you can get that anymore. Size five needles are most often used with a light-to medium yarn. So you could either double two strands of modern fingering weight or try a lighter weight sweater yarn. A worsted weight soaker would probably just fit a larger baby.

Measurements Length at the center front 8 1/2 inches. Width all around 18 ins

Beginning at the top of the waistband at the back cast on 60 Stitches
Work 1 1/2 inches (K2,P2) ribbing

Knit even in garter stitch (plain knitting every row for 4 1/2 inches)

Work 5 inches (K2, P2) ribbing

Knit even in #garter Stitch for 4 1/2 inches

Work 1 1/2 inches (K2, P2) ribbing. Work should measure 17 inches from beginning.

Cast off LOOSELY.

Sew side seams down from waistband for 5 1/2 inches. For the cord, cast on 120 stiches LOOSELY. Cast off LOOSELY (or my note use Idiot cord or braided cord if you like). Cord should measure about 34 inches when stretched. Darn in ends, With a bodkin (yarn needle) thread the cord in and out through the waist band ribbing, 3/4 inch from the top edge.

Note* I guessing that if you wanted to use idiot cord, you could do eyelet rows at the top of the pants. I'm also guessing that you could make them a bit longer and sew in elastic instead of a tie. I've done that with lots of older patterns that tie under the neck, because most mothers prefer not to use the neck ties these days. These could probably also be adjusted to knit in the round though because the GARTER stitch is going to be stronger and warmer than plain knitting, its likely that this is one item that is just as easy to knit flat and sew up the two seams later.

For larger or smaller babies, just adjust the yarn and needles sizes.

Well, I have now learned my new word for the day and it is Pilch, which is an old fashioned word for soaker. I discovered this in another of the old Canadian knitting books I got from someone on e-bay. Somewhere I have my mother's old 1940's knitting book that also has these items in it but I can't find it at the moment. Many of the old patterns take a long time to type out, but these tiny garments tend to have shorter directions and its worth copying them because they are a lot harder to find than say a simple baby cap.

This one is titled Pilch from the "Jumper and Pilch set" and is from:
The Fairytale Baby Book by Pattons published in 1979

Pilch

yarn: 3, 20 gram balls of something called Fairytale QuickerKnit which appears to be partly nylon. So perhaps these things can be made out of wool blends or even acrylic yarn. Since plastic pants work, this might be worth an experiment. From needle sizes I'm guessing this is a light weight yarn either sport or light DK weight.

Needle size 2 (apx) or 3mm
size 3 (apx) or 3 1/4

Front:

With smaller needles cast on 72 stitches and work in K1,P1 rib for 1 1/2 in

change to larger needles and starting with a Knit Row, work in stocking stich until Front Measures 6 3/4 inches, ending with right side row facing for next row.

Shape Crutch by casting off 4 sts at beg or next 10 rows, then dec 1 st at each end of every row until 20 sts remain

Work 5 row. Cast off.

Back
With smaller needles cast on 72 stitches and work in K1, P1 rib for 1 1/2 in

Change to larger needles and starting with a K row, work 2 rows stocking stich

Shape back as follows:
1st row - K 48, turn

2nd row - sL1, p23 (I think that means slip first stitch to the left then pearl 23) turn

3rd row - sL1, K 29 turn

Continue in this way, working 6 sts more on every row until the row sL1, P59, turn has been worked.

Next row, sL1, K to end

Continue in stocking stitch across all sts until Back matches Front at side edge of every row until 20 stitches remain.

Work 5 rows and cast off.

Make up and Leg Bands

Press pieces flat (I would say if you need to)

Using a flat seam for ribbing and a fine back-stitch seam for remainder, join side seams.

Leg Bands: With right sides facing and smaller needles knit up 68 stitches all around each leg. Work in K1, P1, rib for 1 1/2 inch. Cast off in rib stich.

Join crutch and Leg Bands.

Fold Waist and leg ribbing in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position, leaving an opening at the waist for elastic, insert elastic, join.

press seams.


I noticed that this little garment would also make nice "short-shorts" for a little boy or dressy under-pants for a baby girl's skirt; even if they were not needed as soakers but to hide a disposable diaper.

Today's Frugal or Useful free knitting pattern is one of a series that has floated around the net for over a decade and is still as useful as they were in the early 1990's. The "Odd Ball" patterns use up bits and bobs of yarn, which can make you look like a neo-hippie but can be more "toned down" depending on what sort of left over yarn colors you use. Don't let the hippie picture stop you from using these patterns, just pick left over Gray, Navy Blue, Soft White and Dark Green for your husband, unless of course he is an old hippie (or color blind) LOL! Seriously, this sort of pattern helps use up stash and will be very helpful in things go south.

*Note: I have just edited this because I realized there is only one "size" listed here. To make a thinner or wider vest, just knit a piece of fabric to gage (about 20 stitches should = 5 inches 4 x 5 = 20). If you are getting about 4 stitches to the inch, just add an extra 1/2 inch on each side of the vest front and back to increase your vest by 1 inch (or decrease the same way). For a longer vest, just keep knitting as long as you want.

I'm starting with the vest pattern because it is very easy for a newbie and because vests are another garment that we think of as decorative but in a cold house can keep you warm while leaving your arms free to wash dishes, knead bread or even chop wood.

The Link is:
http://www.knittingonthenet.com/pattern ... pevest.htm


Odd Ball Vest Or Sleeveless Shell Pullover Knitting Pattern

Designed by Barbara Breiter

Odd Ball Vest Or Sleeveless Shell Pullover Knitting Pattern

You can wear this as either a vest or a sleeveless shell. It has a scoop neck in the front. If you plan to wear it as a shell, you can knit the back the same as the front if you wish for a scoop in the back as well.

Size:
Medium
Finished chest measurement 38"

Gauge:
18 sts=4" in St st with larger needles
Sweater is knit with short lengths of yarn so you may occassionally use yarn that does not work to this exact gauge.

Materials:
Size 6 US (4.25 mm) needles
Size 8 US (5 mm) needles
Worsted weight yarn in various shades. Consider a definite color scheme such as pastels, shades of green, or bright, saturated colors.

Instructions
There is no set way to knit each row. Feel free to improvise as you knit. Knit with lengths of yarn about 3 to 12 feet. Work in St st until the color runs out and change to a new color yarn.

Back
With smaller needles, CO 76 st.With different colors for each row, work k1, p1 ribbing 2½".
Inc 10 sts evenly over last row - 86 sts.
Change to larger needles and work in St st over pattern for 13" or to desired length.
BO 5 sts beg next 2 rows -76 sts.
Work armhole 8" or to desired length.
BO 22 sts beg next two rows.
BO rem sts.

Front
Work same as Back until armhole reaches 5".
Work 29 sts. Place rem sts on holder.
At neck edge, dec 1 st every other row 7 times - 22 sts. Work until armhole measures same as Back.
BO.
Place sts from holder back on needle.
BO 18 sts for neck; work rem 29 sts same as other side.

Finishing
Seam shoulders.
Work one round single crochet around neck and armholes.
Seam sides. Weave in ends on WS.

©Barbara Breiter. This design may not be reproduced in any manner without the expressed written consent of the author.

See Abbreviations and the Glossary for help.

Also see Knit A Bit, for patterns by Barbara Breiter

This is an oldie but goodie that floats around the net and I will see if I can find a sample with a picture. The result should be an almost lacy cardigan. The original is the Five Hour Baby Sweater which has been around since the 1940's. I've made about six of the baby sweaters and they are lovely, someday I'm going to do this one. Hint, they may take a bit longer than 5 or 10 hours but they are fast. If you don't have thick yarns, you can double or triple smaller ones to use up your stash.

http://www.woolworks.org/patterns/10-hour.txt
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 16:51:10 +0000 (GMT)
From: Laura Green 969-4600 <Laura_Green@WYCLIFFE.ORG>
To: /R=internet/R=woolworks.org/U=emily/FFN=emily/@mr.sil.org
Subject: 10-hour adult sweater

[corrected version]


10-hour Adult Sweater
(your mileage may vary)

Materials :

* chunky yarn (I used 3 skeins Lion Brand Homespun)
* size 10-1/2 needles

Gauge: 10 sts = 4"

Finished bust size = 46"

* M1: pick up the running thread between the stitch just worked and
the next one. Place this loop on the left hand needle and knit.

* Kfb: Knit into the front and back of the next stitch.

* s1: slip one stitch

Cast on 68 sts for neck edge

Note You will always keep first and last 6 stitches in "knit" even on a
"P" row. I did not write in the button holes so you can add them in
with whatever spacing you desire.

* Row 1 K
* Row 2 K
* Row 3 K6 P2tog,*YO, P2tog. Repeat from * to last 6 sts, K6 (67st)
* Row 4 K
* Row 5 K6, P to last 6 sts, K6
* Row 6 K6 *Kfb, K1. Repeat from * ending with Kfb, K6 (95 st)
* Row 7 K6, P to last 6 sts, K6
* Row 8 K6 *K2tog. Repeat from * to last 7 sts, K7
* Row 9 K6 *K1, M1; repeat from * to last 7 sts, K7 (95 st)
* Row 10 K6 * Kfb, K2. Repeat from * end Kfb, K7
* Row 11 K6, P to last 6 sts, K6 (123 sts)
* Row 12 K6, *K2tog. Repeat from * to last 7 sts, K7
* Row 13 K6 *K1, M1; repeat from * to last 7 sts, K7 (123 st)
* Row 14 K7 *Kfb, K3. Repeat from * to last 7 sts, K4 (151 st)
* Row 15 K6, P to last 6 sts, K6
* Row 16 K6 *K2tog. Repeat from * to last 7 sts, K7
* Row 17 K6 *K1, M1; repeat from * to last 7 sts, K7

Shape shoulders

* Row 18 K48 turn
* Row 19 s1 P4 turn
* Row 20 s1 K8 turn
* Row 21 s1 P12 turn
* Row 22 s1 K16 turn
* Row 23 s1 P20 turn
* Row 24 s1 K24 turn
* Row 25 s1 P28 turn
* Row 26 s1 K32 turn
* Row 27 s1 P36 turn
* Row 28 s1 K40 turn
* Row 29 s1 P44 turn
* Row 30 s1 K48 turn
* Row 31 s1 P52 turn
* Row 32 s1 K84 turn
* Row 33 s1 P4 turn
* Row 34 s1 K8 turn
* Row 35 s1 P12 turn
* Row 36 s1 K16 turn
* Row 37 s1 P20 turn
* Row 38 s1 K24 turn
* Row 39 s1 P28 turn
* Row 40 s1 K32 turn
* Row 41 s1 P36 turn
* Row 42 s1 K40 turn
* Row 43 s1 P44 turn
* Row 44 s1 K48 turn
* Row 45 s1 P52 turn
* Row 46 s1 K56 turn
* Row 47 s1 P117 turn
* Row 48 s1 K121 turn
* Row 49 s1 P125 turn
* Row 50 s1 K129 turn
* Row 51 s1 P to last 6, K6 (151 sts)
* Row 52 K27, kfb 2x, K25, kfb 2x, k39, kfb 2x, k25 kfb 2x, k27
* Row 53 K6, P to last 6, K6 (159 sts)
* Row 54 K28, kfb 2x, K27, kfb 2x, k41, kfb 2x, k27 kfb 2x, k28
* Row 55 K6, P to last 6, K6 (167 sts)
* Row 56 K29, kfb 2x, K29, kfb 2x, k43, kfb 2x, k29 kfb 2x, k29
* Row 57 K6, P to last 6, K6 (175 sts)
* Row 56 K30, kfb 2x, K31, kfb 2x, k45, kfb 2x, k31 kfb 2x, k30
* Row 57 K6, P to last 6, K6 (183 sts)
* Row 56 K31, kfb 2x, K33, kfb 2x, k47, kfb 2x, k33 kfb 2x, k31
* Row 57 K6, P to last 6, K6 (191 sts)
* Row 58 K33, place 37 on holder, K51, place 37 on holder, K32
* Row 59 K6, P to last 6, K6 (117 sts)
* Row 60 K

Repeat rows 59 & 60 until piece is 1 inch from desired length

* Row 1 K6, * K2tog. Repeat from * to last 7 sts. K7
* Row 2 K6, *K1, M1; repeat to last 7 sts, k7
* Row 3 K
* Row 4 K6, P to last 6, K6
* Row 5 K
* Row 6 K6, P to last 6, K6
* Row 7 K6, *K2tog, YO, repeat from * to last 7 sts, K7.
* Row 8 K6, P to last 6, K6
* Row 9 K
* Row 10 K6, P to last 6, K6
* Row 11 K

* Bind off, turn up hem at eyelet row and sew in place.

Sleeves

* Take stitches from holder and pick up an additional 3 sts at underarm
with size 10 1/2 dpns or small circular.
* Work in stockinette st until 1 inch from desired length.

* Row 1 *K2tog, repeat from * to end of round
* Row 2 *K1, M1; repeat from * to end of round
* Row 3 K
* Row 4 P
* Row 5 K
* Row 6 P
* Row 7 *K2tog, YO, repeat from * to end of round
* Row 8 P
* Row 9 K
* Row 10 P
* Row 11 K

* Bind off, turn up hem at eyelet row and sew in place.

---
This pattern downloaded from Wool Works: the online knitting compendium
http://www.woolworks.org/


From another site: http://www.knitlist.com/97gift/10-hour.htm
10-hour Adult Sweater
(your mileage may vary)


Materials:
Chunky yarn (I used 3 skeins Lion Brand Homespun)
US size 10-1/2 needles

Gauge:
10 sts = 4"

Size:
Finished bust size = 46"

Abbreviations:
M1: pick up the running thread between the stitch just worked and the next one. Place this loop on the left hand needle and knit.

Kfb: Knit into the front and back of the next stitch.

s1: slip one stitch

Pattern:
Cast on 68 sts for neck edge

Note You will always keep first and last 6 stitches in "knit" even on a "P" row. I did not write in the button holes so you can add them in with whatever spacing you desire.

Row 1: K

Row 2: K

Row 3: K6 P2tog, *YO, P2tog. Repeat from * to last 6 sts, K6 (67st)

Row 4: K

Row 5: K6, P to last 6 sts, K6

Row 6: K6, *Kfb, K1. Repeat from * ending with Kfb, K6 (95 st)

Row 7: K6, P to last 6 sts, K6

Row 8: K6, *K2tog. Repeat from * to last 7 sts, K7

Row 9: K6, *K1, M1; repeat from * to last 7 sts, K7 (95 st)

Row 10: K6, * Kfb, K2. Repeat from * end Kfb, K7

Row 11: K6, P to last 6 sts, K6 (123 sts)

Row 12: K6, *K2tog. Repeat from * to last 7 sts, K7

Row 13: K6, *K1, M1; repeat from * to last 7 sts, K7 (123 st)

Row 14: K7, *Kfb, K3. Repeat from * to last 7 sts, K4 (151 st)

Row 15: K6, P to last 6 sts, K6

Row 16: K6, *K2tog. Repeat from * to last 7 sts, K7

Row 17: K6, *K1, M1; repeat from * to last 7 sts, K7

Shape shoulders

Row 18: K48, turn

Row 19: s1, P4, turn

Row 20: s1, K8, turn

Row 21: s1, P12, turn

Row 22: s1, K16, turn

Row 23: s1, P20, turn

Row 24: s1, K24, turn

Row 25: s1, P28, turn

Row 26: s1, K32, turn

Row 27: s1, P36, turn

Row 28: s1, K40, turn

Row 29: s1, P44, turn

Row 30: s1, K48, turn

Row 31: s1, P52, turn

Row 32: s1, K84, turn

Row 33: s1, P4, turn

Row 34: s1, K8, turn

Row 35: s1, P12, turn

Row 36: s1, K16, turn

Row 37: s1, P20, turn

Row 38: s1, K24, turn

Row 39: s1, P28, turn

Row 40: s1, K32, turn

Row 41: s1, P36, turn

Row 42: s1, K40, turn

Row 43: s1, P44, turn

Row 44: s1, K48, turn

Row 45: s1, P52, turn

Row 46: s1, K56, turn

Row 47: s1, P117, turn

Row 48: s1, K121, turn

Row 49: s1, P125, turn

Row 50: s1, K129, turn

Row 51: s1, P to last 6, K6 (151 sts)

Row 52: K27, kfb twice, K25, kfb twice, k39, kfb twice, k25 kfb twice, k27

Row 53: K6, P to last 6, K6 (159 sts)

Row 54: K28, kfb twice, K27, kfb twice, k41, kfb twice, k27, kfb twice, k28

Row 55: K6, P to last 6, K6 (167 sts)

Row 56: K29, kfb twice, K29, kfb twice, k43, kfb twice, k29, kfb twice, k29

Row 57: K6, P to last 6, K6 (175 sts)

Row 56: K30, kfb twice, K31, kfb twice, k45, kfb twice, k31, kfb twice, k30

Row 57: K6, P to last 6, K6 (183 sts)

Row 56: K31, kfb twice, K33, kfb twice, k47, kfb twice, k33, kfb twice, k31

Row 57: K6, P to last 6, K6 (191 sts)

Row 58: K33, place 37 on holder, K51, place 37 on holder, K32

Row 59: K6, P to last 6, K6 (117 sts)

Row 60: K

Repeat rows 59 & 60 until piece is 1 inch from desired length

Row 1: K6, * K2tog. Repeat from * to last 7 sts. K7

Row 2: K6, *K1, M1; repeat to last 7 sts, k7

Row 3: K

Row 4: K6, P to last 6, K6

Row 5: K

Row 6: K6, P to last 6, K6

Row 7: K6, *K2tog, YO, repeat from * to last 7 sts, K7.

Row 8: K6, P to last 6, K6

Row 9: K

Row 10: K6, P to last 6, K6

Row 11: K

Bind off, turn up hem at eyelet row and sew in place.

Sleeves

Take stitches from holder and pick up an additional 3 sts at underarm with size 10 1/2 dpns or small circular.

Work in stockinette st until 1 inch from desired length.

Row 1: *K2tog, repeat from * to end of round

Row 2: *K1, M1; repeat from * to end of round

Row 3: K

Row 4: P

Row 5: K

Row 6: P

Row 7: *K2tog, YO, repeat from * to end of round

Row 8: P

Row 9: K

Row 10: P

Row 11: K

Bind off, turn up hem at eyelet row and sew in place.

Copyright 1997 Laura Green. E-mail: Laura_Green@WYCLIFFE.ORG

There are dozens of version of this sweater on the net, the very oldest ones copies directly from the 1950's pattern are hard to read and at least one has an error. This site looks good (have not used it personally as I have a print out) and has many variations, like buttons. You will want to use buttons rather than the old fashioned ties, as many parents will not use items that have them. Or, just put a button at the top and use ties for the rest of the sweater as I gather it is ties at the neck that are the real issue, though babies did use them for hundreds of years. Its probably wise to avoid them if they are not needed.

http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/kp3.html


Materials :
4 oz. (120 g) soft worsted weight yarn [Ed. note: 55-75 yd/oz, 180-240 m/100g ]
size 10-1/2 needles (full-term 7-8 lb baby), size 8 or size 5 needles for preemie baby sizes (be sure needles are at least 13" long)
4 stitch holders.
(note: increase sts by "Knitting into front of stitch. Before slipping stitch off needle, place right needle behind left and knit again into back of stitch. Slip original stitch off left needle.")

Cast on 34 sts for neck edge (I have been told by someone that 34 sts should be 33, but 34 always works for me)

Note Always keep first and last 3 stitches in "knit" even on a "P" row.

Row 1: K
Row 2: K
Row 3: K3 *P2tog, YO. Repeat from * ending P2 tog, K3 (34st)
Row 4: K
Row 5: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3
Row 6: K3 *inc 1 by knitting once in the back of the stitch, then once in the front; K1. Repeat from * ending with inc.1, K3 (47 st)
Row 7: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3
Row 8: K3 *K2tog. Repeat from * ending K4
Row 9: K3 *K1, insert needle under next horizontal loop of row below (between sts) and knit this st. Repeat from * across, ending K4 (47 st)
Row 10: K4 * inc 1 st in next st, K2. Repeat from * end inc. 1, K3 (61 sts)
Row 11: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3
Row 12: K3, *K2 tog. Repeat from * ending K4 (34 st)
Row 13: Same as row 9. (61 st)
Row 14: K4 *inc 1 in next st, K3. Repeat from * ending with inc. 1, K4 (75
st)
Row 15: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3 (75 sts)
Row 16: K3 *K2 tog. Repeat from * ending K4 (41 st)
Row 17: K3 *K1, insert needle under next horizontal loop of row below
(between sts) and knit this st. Repeat from * across, ending K4 (75 st)
Row 18: K4 *inc 1 in next st, K4. Repeat from * to end, ending with inc. 1,
K5 (89)
Row 19: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3
Row 20: Same as row 16. (48 st)
Row 21: Same as row 17. (89 st)
Row 22: K5 *inc 1 in next st, K5. Repeat from * to last 5 sts-K. (103 sts)
Row 23: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3
Row 24: Same as row 16. (55 st)
Row 25: Same as row 17. (103 st)
Row 26: K17 (front), inc 1 in next st, place marker (pm), inc 1 in next st, K 15 (sleeve), inc 1 in next st, pm, inc 1 in next st, K 31 (back), inc 1 in next st, pm, inc 1 in next st, K 15 (sleeve), inc 1 in next st, pm, inc 1 in next st, K17 (front) (111 st)
(keep moving markers on each row)
Row 27: (If you want to start a contrasting color, I have been told this is a good place change colors.) K3, P to last 3 sts, K3
Row 28: Knit, increasing 1 st at each side of markers (119 sts)
Row 29: Same as row 27.
Row 30: Same as row 28. (127 sts)
Row 31: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3
Row 32: K21, place on holder, K 23 sleeve st and keep on needle, place rest of stitches on holders -- 39 for back, 23 for other sleeve, 21 for other front.
(remove markers as you place sts on holders.)

Sleeve (make sure you get the sleeve and don't knit the front)
Rows 1-16 : work in stockinette st
Row 17: K2tog *P1, K1, P1, K2tog. Repeat from * (17 sts).
Rows 18-22: Work K1 P1 rib.
Bind off loosely.

Work other sleeve the same (Look at Row 26 to see Sleeve Sts.)
Attach yarn at underarm on right side of work and K across body (81 sts).

Work in st st keeping K3 garter border for 12 rows
Row 13: Repeat row 16 of top of sweater, but end with k4. (44 sts) (Right Side)
Row 14: Repeat row 17. (83 sts)
Rows 15-18: Work in st st keeping K3 garter border
Row 19: K3, *K2tog, YO, repeat from * ending with yo, K3.
Rows 20-23: Work in garter stitch (knit every row)
Bind off loosely.

Sew sleeve seams. Crochet a chain to thread through eyelet in top of sweater or use a pretty ribbon.

NEW Button front ADDITION



copyright 2003 Mary Cowley
Button down front, to avoid the ties.

"I worked the pattern exactly the same EXCEPT- I added 2 stitches on either side of the sweater so when I cast on I did 38 sts instead of the called for 34. I basically just made a k5 border instead of a k3 border. I used 5/8" diameter buttons.

I worked the button holes as follows: at the beginning of the buttonhole rows K2 tog, yo, knit 3 rem sts of border. Then the rest of row as pattern calls for. I made the button holes on rows 3, 15 and 27 of the top section of the sweater body and rows 8 and 20 of the second section. (total of 5 button holes) I didn't change any of
the pattern except for the border, so you just need to remember to add 2 knit stitches at the beginning and 2 at the end of each row throughout the body of the sweater. Here is a picture if you want to see what it looks like (click on it for a bigger view)


Matching Booties
Baby Booties to Match Quickie Sweater

Materials: Size 10-1/2 [Ed. note: 6.5 mm]knitting needles, 4-ply (worsted weight) yarn [Ed. note: 55-75 yd/oz, 180-240 /100g]

* Cast on 22 stitches, work K1, p1 for 3 rows to form ribbing.
* Row 4: Knit
* Row 5: Purl
* Row 6: (Pattern) K1, *k2tog across row to last st. *, K1.
* Row 7: K1, pick up stitch between and below next st, continue until last 2 sts, K2.
* Row 8: Knit
* Row 9: Purl
* Row 10: Same as row 6.
* Row 11: Same as row 7 (this pattern row is later used to run ch thru for ties)
* Begin instep: Knit 7 sts, place on holder, K8 and place remaining 7 sts on another holder. (22 sts)
* Work the 8 sts of instep in K1 row, P1 row for 10 rows.
* Break yarn off at end of 10 rows. End with knit row and place the 8 sts on holder also.
* Pick up 7 sts on holder plus 5 sts along side of instep, 8 sts at end
of instep, 5 sts along other side of instep and remaining 7 sts on the
other holder.
* Work these 32 sts for six rows in a K1 row, P1 row, on 7th row bind off.
* Sew up bottom and back of bootie.
* Crochet a single chain to use as a tie for the booties, one for each.
* Pom Poms can be added to the end of the ties.

Bev's Pattern Pages

Last year, nearly every child and most of the adults on my Yule list got one of these. This was the best pattern I found of many, and she has other sizes and versions on her site. All she asks is that you don't sell exact copies of her stuff, but feel free to make as many as you like. This pattern is easy, fits well and it easy to resize. I'd say the experience level is beginner but not a first project (another 3rd or 4th one).

Even those these caps go in and out of style (I had no idea they were the rage when a friend asked me to knit one for her little daughter for riding on the back of a Harley with Mom) They are timeless because they keep ears warm in cold climates. Use patterns for your toddler and make plain ones for DH, they look great with or without a pompom when knitted for children.

http://heyjulie.blogspot.com/2006/06/ba ... p-hat.html

Basic Earflap Hat
Otherwise known as FO #93. I had a skein of Pastaza in my stash that I didn't know what to do with, and I'd toyed with knitting hats to send to this program in the fall. I relied heavily on this pattern when I started knitting earflap hats, but I changed up a few things and rarely use a pattern any more....but I wrote this one down as I knit it up.

(Note that in the pictured hat, the earflaps are 4" and the main part of the hat is 4". I changed the pattern to reflect what I discovered when finished -- the flaps are a bit too long, and the length would be better used as part of the hat proper.)



Supplies:

* about 100g of heavy worsted weight yarn (I used Cascade Pastaza, but you can use any yarn that knits to gauge)
* at least three DPNs and a matching 16" circular needle (I used US8, but again, you can use whatever knits to gauge)
* one stitch marker

Gauge: 3.5 stitches per inch in stockinette stitch

Ear Flaps
CO 7 stitches.
Row 1: K1, P to last stitch, K1.
Row 2: K1, Kfb, K to last 2 stitches, Kfb, K1.
Repeat these two rows until there are 15 stitches on the needles.

Knit straight until piece measures 3.5".
Cut yarn, leaving a 12" tail, and leave the earflap on its DPN.
Repeat for second ear flap.

Hat
Using a cable cast on, CO 10 stitches on the circular needle. Knit the 15 stitches from first ear flap, then CO 24 stitches. K15 from second ear flap, then CO 10.

(Confused? Here's a video that shows what I'm talking about!)

Join, being careful not to twist stitches, place marker and begin knitting in the round. As you knit around this first row, you'll notice four gaps, on either side of each ear flap. When you get to those, K2tog to close them up. At the end of the round, you should have 70 stitches on the needles.

Continue knitting all rounds until hat measures 4.5" from the cast-on row (or 8" from the beginning of the ear flaps). Then begin the decreases as follows, switching to DPNs or two circs (video here) when the diameter of the hat is too small for your circular needle:

(Decrease) Row 1: *K8, K2tog*
Row 2: K all sts
(Decrease) row 3: *K7, K2tog*
Row 4: K all sts
(Decrease) row 5: *K6, K2tog*
Row 6: K all sts

Decrease in this manner until there are 35 sts on the needles.
Then decrease in the same manner, omitting the "k all sts" rows, until there are 7 sts remaining.
Pull yarn through the last 7 sts with a tapestry needle, pull through to inside and weave in end.

Finishing
Weave in all ends. (I like to leave the tails where I ended the earflaps long so that I can use them to tighten up of otherwise correct anything that looks wonky around the earflap join area.)

There are a few ways you can add straps -- pick up 3-4 sts and knit in garter stitch or seed stitch until desired length. OR pick up 3-4 stitches and knit i-cord until desired length. OR, thread through three long pieces of yarn and braid the double-strands until desired length, then tie off and trim.

Block and lay flat to dry.

Knitting for men folk (even when the man is the knitter) can be a somewhat daunting task. Most don't like much color and anything that does not fit just to their liking will probably sit unloved and unworn in the closet, except at Yuletide or some other occasion. Women, who are the majority of knitters, will tend to wear a garment they have made, even if it is not "quite right" while most men will not. They also tend not to tell you (or may not even be sure) what is wrong, they just "forget" to put it on.

One of the main causes of misfits in men's knitting is size (the other is the overuse of bright colors). If the wonderful man in your life is not an average size (or his weight has shifted somewhat since his days as a high school quarter back) this can be a real challenge. Most patterns are made for men who look like small tree trunks, with now shaping and no shoulders. That's great for a twenty five year old in good shape, but it often does not reflect the reality of the mature adult figure. Women's sweaters don't help here, because even the ones for "mature" figures add the extra stitches in places men don't need.

This pattern, while I have not tried it, looks to remedy that problem. It might also work for those of us ladies who are um.. shall we say pear shaped, or in a family way. I just had a friend ask for a pattern sweater for her eight month, and while this might still be too small depending on the size of "bump" it might work for months 5 through 8, if the women herself is somewhat heavy.

If anyone makes this for DH, son or themselves, please let me know how you like it? I wish it had been around when my 400 pound father was still alive...he loved knit sweaters!

My guess at knitting level - Experienced beginner - could be a first sweater

Big Gent's Pullover from Lucy's Knits



Sketch courtesy of Ann Volkes

Materials:
2000- 2500 yards of your favorite worsted weight yarn
Brown Sheep's Superwash, in color #SW92 or #SW90 or Cascade's 220 is perfect for this pattern, and was written for it. Always buy one more skein than you think you'll need.

#7 (US) and #5 (US) needles, either straight or round. Lately, there has been much discussion of the ergonomics of knitting, and, being one who has had to use round needles, because of arthritis in my thumbs, and a three inch piece of steel in the left thumb, I highly recommend round, 29" or 36". #5 (US) 24" round needle for collar.

Two stitch holders and a yarn needle or size E crochet hook to finish the garment.

Gauge:
4- 4½ sts/in If you obtain a larger gauge, just decrease either the stitch count, or reduce needle size.

Skill Level: Beginner

Approximate Knitting Time:
75 hours

Pattern Stitch: Straight Stockinette (1 row knit, 1 row purl)

Chest Measurements at 4sts to the inch:
XL=62"
2X=65"
3X=70"
4-5X=75"

Chest Measurements at 4½ sts to the inch:
XL=56"
2X=58"
3X=62"
4-5X=66"

Back:
Numbers given are for size XL with 2X, 3X, and 4-5X in brackets.

Cast on 124 (130, 140, 150) sts, with #5 (US) needles, and work for 2" in 1/1 ribbing.

Change to #7 needles and KNIT across the next WS row, forming 1 garter ridge, and then continue to work for 14 (15, 16, 18) inches.

Cast off 10 (11, 12, 12) stitches at the beginning of the next two rows, 114 (119, 128, 138) sts.

At each end of every other right side row, dec 1 st, three times 108 (113, 122, 132) sts.

Work even for another 15 (15, 15, 16)". Note that the largest size is also for those who are VERY tall, at a finished length of 34".

Right Back Shoulder:

(WS Row) Work across the first 25 (27, 28, 30)sts, place the following 58 (59, 66, 72)sts on stitch holder, turn and work across RS row (Row 1) as follows: K2, sl1, k1, psso, work to end.

Work across WS row (Row 2) even.

Repeat these rows 2 (2,2,3) more times ending with RS (Row 1), turn, and at shoulder edge, cast off 9 (10, 11, 11) sts. Finish row, turn, and work 1 more row across remaining sts. Cast off
securely.

Work Left Back Shoulder the same as the Right Back, reversing all shaping.

Front:
Cast on and work as for back.

(If your "Big Guy" has a bigger tummy than backside, I have this trick: between the garter trim and the armhole, spaced about 1½" apart, add rows in the following manner: On a RS row, Knit across to last three sts, turn and purl across to last three sts, turn and knit all the way back across RS row. Purl all the way across next WS row. This will add room for a big tummy, without adding a "balloon" effect on the back of the garment. When measuring length of piece, do it at the selvage.)

Work armholes as for back, and continue to work in st st, even, for another 13½ (14, 14, 14½)".

Work Left Front Shoulder first, starting with RS row.
K across first 30 (32,33, 35) sts, place next 48 (49, 56, 62) sts onto st holder, turn and work across the Left Front Shoulder.

Next RS row (Row 1): K across to last 4 stitches, K2tog, k2. Turn, work even across WS row. Repeat these rows, 4 (4, 4, 5) more times, 20(22, 23, 25) sts remain. Work even until the front measures the same as the back.

At Shoulder edge, cast off 10(11, 11, 12)sts. Finish row, turn, P even across WS row. Cast off remaining sts securely.

Sleeves:
Sew or crochet Back and Front together at shoulders, securely. Along armhole edge, pick up 128(128, 128, 136) sts.

Next two RS rows, inc 1 st at each end of row, 3 times. Work even until sleeve measures 1¼". If
your Big Guy has gorilla arms, as does my DH, add length to the sleeves at the top by working sleeve, even, to the desired increase in length. Then, dec 1 st at each end of every third row 28 (28, 28, 30) (20- 22 inches) times, 44 (44, 44, 46 sts)

Next WS row, K across to form garter ridge. Change to #5 needles, work even in 1/1 ribbing for 2½", cast off in 1/1 ribbing.

Finishing:
Collar: Starting at Right Back Neck Edge, pick up 8 sts. Knit sts from holder onto active needle. At Left Back Neck Edge, pick up 8 sts. At Left Front Neck Edge, pick up 12 sts. Knit sts from holder onto active needle. Pick up 12 sts along Right Front Neck Edge, 146 (148, 162,
174)sts. With 24" #5 (US) round needle work purl one row, to form ridge. Change to 1/1 ribbing and work tightly for 1½(1½, 2, 2) ". Cast off securely. Sew or crochet side seams together.

Extra fun: If your guy is big around the middle, but short, choose a smaller size for length than for stitch counts, and use my "trick" of adding rows in the tummy area. If he's 6'9" and a bean pole, use fewer stitches, with the longest length. If you want to do this, go through the whole pattern and circle the numbers you want to use, so you won't get confused.

This pattern is Copyright © Lucy Osborne of Lucy's Knits 1998, all rights reserved. Image copyright Ann Volkes 1999. All rights reserved. lucysknits@aol.com or lucyosborne@aol.com


http://www.knitlist.com/98gift/biggentspullover.htm

Well, its that time of year and since many will be doing a home made Yule (a lot of us would be anyway, so we are ahead of the fashion curve lol) so I thought I'd look for simple patterns that folks can knit for the Holiday. While "optional" in that they are not socks, hats or sweaters; they are useful to keeping a cheerful home during the dark season of the year. Besides they are fun and many are quick to knit and good for learning things like increasing or decreasing on something that is not your first attempt at a sweater with you favorite yarn. Something you can knit with acrylic wool from Wall mart and if it doesn't turn out, you can stuff it for a cat toy with only an evenings work behind you (not wasted, you learned something right?).

Here are a few I found on line, though I haven't tried them they look good and in this post I will stick to beginner level patterns.
All of these are located at the Free Holiday Knitting Pattern site at
http://www.knittinghelp.com/patterns/fr ... ecorations

Christmas Bell Pin Or Ornament Knitting Pattern
http://www.knittingonthenet.com/patterns/holbell2.htm
Debbie McGrath

Christmas Ornament Knitting Pattern

Easy to knit Christmas bell pattern takes less than an hour. Use worsted weight and needles appropriate for the yarn.

Instructions:
CO 12 sts.
Row 1: K9, knit into front and back of next 2 sts, k1 -14 sts
Row 2: P6, k8
Row 3: K14

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 14 times more for a total of 15 ridges.
BO 9 sts, k2tog, BO one st, k2tog, BO one st. Fasten off.

Sew seam, draw up top edge with yarn. Hang jingle bell in center of bell. Make loop on top for hanger.

See Abbreviations and the Glossary for help.

Christmas Star Ornament Knitting Pattern
http://www.extremezone.com/~binky/graphic/starorn.jpg
Designed by Barbara Breiter

Christmas star ornament knitting pattern

Knit this Christmas star ornament with any yarn; it adds holiday sparkle if you use a yarn with metallic fibers. For the ornament shown, I used Rowan Glimmer Print (a bulky tape) and size 11 US needles. It measures 5½ inches across. A lighter weight yarn and smaller needles will make a smaller ornament. You could also spread on glue and then sprinkle glitter over it and let it dry. Or, knit in some shiny beads!

Instructions
CO 1 st, leaving a long tail that will be used to make the hanging loop.
Row 1: Knit into the front and back of the sts.
Row 2: K1, k into front and back of next st-3 sts.
Row 3: K3.
Row 4: K into the front and back of first st, k1, k into the front and back of last st-5 sts.
Row 5: K
Row 6: K into the front and back of first st, k across to last st, k into the front and back of last st.

Rep Rows 5 and 6 until you have 11 sts.

Using the Cable Cast On, CO 5 sts.
K across all 16 sts.
Using the Cable Cast On, CO 5 sts.
K across all 21 sts.

Row 1: SSK, k to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 2: K

Rep Rows 1 and 2 until you have 13 sts.

K into the front and back of first st, k across to last st, k into the front and back of last st.
K one row.
K6, k2tog. Place rem 7 sts on stitch holder.

Row 1: k
Row 2: k to last 2 sts, k2tog

Rep Rows 1 and 2 until you have 2 sts, then k2tog.
Fasten off.

Place sts from stitch holder back on needle. Attach yarn and k one row.

Row 1: k
Row 2: SSK, k across

Rep Rows 1 and 2 until you have 2 sts, then k2tog.
Fasten off.

Weave in ends on WS. Make loop with tail.

©Barbara Breiter. This design may not be reproduced in any manner without the expressed written consent of the author.

Christmas Tree Skirt Knitting Pattern

Designed by Ann McManus

Christmas Tree Skirt Knitting Pattern
http://www.knittingonthenet.com/pattern ... eskirt.htm

Gauge:
Not vital

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn in red, white and green
Size 9 US (5.5 mm) needles

Simple short rows create this Christmas tree skirt.

Working back and forth on circulars, CO any number divisible by 3, i.e., 51, 66, 75, 108 sts. The more sts, the larger it will be.

Row 1: k3, turn, k back to beginning.
Row 2: k6, turn, k back to the beginning.
Row 3: k9, turn, k back to the beginning.

Cont in this manner until all stitches have been knit at least once. You will have a wedge shape. Start over at Row 1. Continue until you have 12 wedges, which should form a circle. Don't seam the opening for a Christmas tree skirt; wrap the skirt around the base, placing the opening at the back.

Optional:
Pick up stitches along the edge and work a garter stitch edging.

Variations:
Use red, white and green yarn for each wedge. Or use lots of different colors, after casting on about 108 stitches to make a cool afghan for the back of the sofa (seam up the opening).

Work this in St st instead of garter st. It will curl a lot. You will want to make a very deep edging of some sort, such as knitted lace edging sewn on on or a picked up garter stitch edging to help it lie flat.



Christmas Tree Ornament Knitting Pattern
http://www.knittingonthenet.com/patterns/holtreeorn.htm

Designed by Barbara Breiter

Christmas Tree Ornament Knitting Pattern

Size:
Approx 5" high and 4" wide

Gauge:
Not vital

Materials:
Green worsted weight yarn
Small amounts of worsted weight yarn in other colors
Needles appropriate for yarn

Instructions
CO 4 sts.
Work in St st for 4 rows.
Using the Cable Cast On or Knit Cast On, CO 6 sts; K rem sts.
CO 6 sts; P rem sts - 16 sts.
Cont in St st and dec 1 st each end every row until 6 sts rem.
CO 4 sts; P rem sts.
CO 4 sts; K rem sts - 14 sts.
Cont in St st and dec 1 st each end every row until 4 sts rem.
CO 4 sts; K rem sts.
CO 4 sts; P rem sts - 12 sts.
Cont in St st and dec 1 st each end every row until 2 sts rem.
P2tog.
Break yarn and pull through loop, leaving a long tail to make loop for hanging.

Make French knots in different colors for the ornaments.

©Barbara Breiter. This design may not be reproduced in any manner without the expressed written consent of the author.

Snowman Ornament
http://www.knitlist.com/01gift/snowman-ornament.htm


Knitted snowman ornament

Materials:
US size 6 or 7 double pointed needles
Worsted weight yarn in white and black, small amounts of red, green, and some orange (or a small button) for his nose

Gauge: don't worry about it it doesn't have to fit anybody

Body

With white cast on 21 sts. Join and knit in round for 24 rows.

Break off yarn and use the end to draw up the remaining stitches.

Stuff and then pull up the stitches on the cast on edge. You now have a white pill shaped object. Wrap some yarn around about a third of the way down from the cast on edge to make the "neck". Embroider face and "coal" buttons.

Top Hat

With black cast on 36sts, join round
Rnd 1: [knit 4, k2tog] 6 times (30sts)
Rnd 2: [knit 3, k2tog] 6 times (24sts)
Rnd 3: [knit 2, k2tog] 6 times (18sts)
Switch to contrasting color

Rnds 4-6: knit
Switch back to black

Rnds 7-15: knit
Rnd 16: [knit 1, k2tog] 6 times (12sts)
Rnd 17: [k2tog] 6 times (6sts)
Rnd 17: [k2tog] 3 times (3sts)

Break off yarn and thread through remaining stitches. Tie off, making a loop for hanging. Darn in the ends and sew to snowman's head along the bottom edge of colored band.

Scarf

You could knit your snowman a scarf but I just twist or braid together 3 strands of red and green yarn. Wrap around his neck twice and tie.

disastercat, Is 8 ply yarn still available? I've only seen 2 ply and 4 ply. And in your explorations on line have you found any site(s) that have a comprehensive list of stitches and the abbreviations commonly used? Am I correct that the abbreviations are standardized? I am just starting to learn knitting and I did get the Zimmerman book you suggested. I like the idea from beaners for making dishcloths to practice new stitches. It appeals to my frugal nature.

With a SHTF scenario looming on our horizen I am thinking I should start collecting some of those free patterns. But since I am not conversant in Knitting yet - how do I spot the difference with levels of difficulty? Also, any suggestions for a general set of needle sizes. I am thinking the most frequently used for projects in general. Thanks! Joyce

Joyce, I don't think 8 ply yarn is still available but for most patterns you can use two skeins of four ply for the same effect. For a project you want soft, you could use Icelandic or very bulky yarn.

Abbreviations tend to be standardized by region. So American books will mostly be the same, UK ones will be different and older Canadian ones are similar to the UK. Ireland follows the UK names and needles sizes. I will be posting later good websites that have charts of the different needle sizes (mainland Europe and German use still another type, though the US ones often have both). I have not had time to check but they exist and I may put them on a stickie, where other folks can add links to similar stuff for quilting and other crafts that vary from place to place.

Elizabeth writes about this a little bit in one of her later books. Having been born a Brit, already a knitter in per-war German while a student and later a US citizen for many decades, she talks about the different ways of holding needles (there are three main ones and several less popular around the world) and how you can combine the right handed/left handed versions when knitting with two colors of yarn (I learned to do this and its great).

As for levels of difficulty, that's why I'm trying to post my own guesses, even on the ones I have not tried myself, because after years of doing this, I have a pretty good clue. ALL the books by Elizabeth and her daughter Meg Swanson will give you good levels and talk you through to the next level when you want to try something a bit harder. They will tend to have "the basic sock" followed by fancier options. The Knitters Handy Book of Patterns is also very good, simple basic patterns in all sizes. With tips on how to fancy them up if you want to.

Dish cloths are a great way to start (my first project was a scarf, taught to me by a heavy young man whose mother got tired of knitting him sweaters and showed him how to knit his own when he was nine). I needed something to do with all my homespun yarn I was making. The scarf, one of the patterns I start my students with is very easy and teaches knit and pearl stitches. Dishcloths would be similar and you need more of them.

I'll post the basic scarf next in a separate post, as its so simple a child seven or older could probably learn along side Mommy and make one to match!
DC

A young man showed me how to make this scarf at a Tree Trimming party one year in Denver. He was quite heavy and his mother had taught him to knit about age nine so he could make his own sweaters. Later, he knit an entire set of chain mail armor!

When I was showing the scarf to my mother, she mentioned that while in college she had knit her sister a baby blanket using the same pattern. The other girls kept teasing her (in the 1950's) for knitting a baby blanket, and would just laugh when she explained it was for her MARRIED sister. lol

Simple scarf

Needle size 6 to 9
Yarn - worsted or med-to heavy (Home spun yarns work great)
Gage: Not that important - you just get a wider or narrower scarf

Cast on 30 stitches (or multiple of 5)

Row 1: Knit 5, Pearl 5
Row 2: Knit 5, Pearl 5
Row 3: Knit 5, Pearl 5
Row 4: Knit 5, Pearl 5
Row 5: Knit 5, Pearl 5

Now reverse
Row 6: Pearl 5, Knit 5
Row 7: Pearl 5, Knit 5
Row 8: Pearl 5, Knit 5
Row 9: Pearl 5, Knit 5
Row 10: Pearl 5, Knit 5

Repeat as long as you want until desired length is reached then cast off.

If you like you can slip the first stitch of each new row (either knit or pearl) for a good edge but you don't have to if its confusing.

Baby Blanket Variation:
Cast on apx 100 stitches (or multiple of 5)
Hint* If you make the scarf first, you know how wide 30 stitches is going to be when YOU knit them on these needles with this wool

You can make the blanket exactly like the scarf or you can do a pretty border by:

First 10 row: All knit
Add an extra five stitches on either side and always KNIT Them EVERY row (that's you side border)
Last 10 rows: All Knit

This gives you a nice garter (all knit) boarder around and will frame the blanket.

You can also make nice lap robes this way, I also seen sweaters and caps using this same basic pattern. Also useful in heavy wool yarns for pot holders and tea cosys.

Happy Knitting,
DC

Soooo neat!!

I wish I knew how to knit. I love that first hat! D